Friday, December 15, 2017 11:20:58 PM


28 days ago
#3776 Quote
Hey Shoeboxers!

The Forums on this website are so quiet lately, you'd think all Shoebox problems have been solved and all questions have been answered.  But I've got one right now I could use your advice and opinions on.

On my 1950 Ford DeLuxe Club Coupe (an off-frame restorod now nearing completion), the driver's door doesn't want to settle completely flush with the surrounding body panels when I close the door.  Imagine for a second that the door latching mechanism has been removed (as I have already done) to see exactly where the interference is.  Then move the door manually into the completely closed position.  When I do this, the door springs back open an inch or two and stays there, as if there is binding either in the hinge(s) or between two adjacent metal surfaces that are part of the door and/or the door aperture.  I've already cut out the repro. door weatherstripping to see if this makes any difference.  Doesn't seem to.  Also, there doesn't seem to be any evidence of old collision damage, and the hinges are free of corrosion and seem to be working normally.

Anybody out there developed a good fix for this problem in a Shoebox?  I'm about ready to reinstall the door backwards just so I have something new to complain about!

28 days ago
#3779 Quote
I had a similar problem on the right rear door on my 50, I removed the hinges and adjusted them in my shop press to get the door better. Its better but not perfect, from what I've learned from a long time car restorer door and panel fit back then was not that good, or I should say the standards were not what we have today.
28 days ago
#3780 Quote
it sounds like you have hinge bind. your hinge is closing before the door is can put some clay between the door hinges , and close the door to see which one is giving you the problem, and go from there
27 days ago
#3781 Quote
Hey Guys,

Thank you Greg and Gary for your replies. I expect to make use of your suggestions as I try to cure this door problem of mine.  Also, I attended a "breakfast with the guys" get together this morning and received another suggestion from Bob, a long-time successful custom car builder.

He said to drive out the two hinge pins completely and temporarily install a single length of drill rod through both pin holes so that the two hinges are solidly connected together.  That way, any misalignment between the hinges will be visible right away, as long as the drill rod remains absolutely straight.  Hmmm, stands to reason that this might work, as long as I can successfully drive out both hinge pins.  Okay, what's the best way to remove 67-year-old hinge pins?  How many beers and busted knuckles does that take?

26 days ago
#3784 Quote
remove the hinges first and place them in a vise. I would loosen the hinge on the post side first on them both and see how it closes
25 days ago
#3785 Quote
Hey Gary,

Thanks again for making the time to reply.  I thought I'd get smarter as I got older, but this time things are going the other way for me.  I'm having trouble visualizing and understanding your kind suggestion completely.

How far apart am I placing the hinge assemblies parallel in the vice?  Am I still driving some drill rod through them both so that they're interconnected as I conduct my test?  What side is the "post side"?  Apologies in advance for causing you extra work, but I want to make sure I give your advice a fair test.  Thanks!

25 days ago
#3786 Quote
place the hinge in the vise to remove the old pin,   the reinstall the hinge on  car , and install one steal rod through both hinges, I still think I would remove one hinge at a time to see which one Is binding. . if there are shims behind the hinge that is the problem . the hinge is completely closing before the door is in close position. if you tape a washer between the hinge , and slowly close the door ,you'll see that your problem get worse. try one at a time , if I doesn't cause a problem , then that hinge is ok. so try the other .then the bad one place 2 washers between the hinge and aply some pressure, then remove the washers and see if it got better
23 days ago
#3787 Quote
Hey Gary,

Now there's a bunch of test directions even I can begin to understand!  Every man should have at least one vice, I've always said, and fortunately mine is located in my barn.  I'm gonna go oil it up.

Next, I need to get my nearest Thanksgiving relative to help me conduct your test, even while we're still reeling around with Thanksgiving excess in our bellies.  Don't know how things will turn out at this point because he's (a) strong and (b) a "normie" - someone entirely disconnected from the old car hobby.  He's great at fishing, but marooned when on land.  Well, wish us luck.

21 days ago
#3796 Quote
my barn has 3 horses in it, they think they own it and every thing in it ,  happy thankgiving
8 days ago
#3811 Quote
Doing restomod on a 50 conv. Might want to check the width of the door opening. Check the good working door opening width at top and bottom and then compare to the problem door. If it is narrower that could cause closure problems.